Throngs of tourists are annoying enough to be elbow-to-elbow with, but then how could I as an English teacher and lover of Will be anything but appreciative of the fact that people want to be part of the fanbase? So I grit my teeth in silence.
The birthplace (and New Place, where he retired as an elderly self-made Jay-Z) had a Disney-sort of quality to it.
The preparative museum was extremely lightweight (check out the Globe instead!) but the rose garden was exquisite, and contained actors performing famous monologues on demand.
Best of all was the stroll (pilgrimage, if you must) down the Avon to the Holy Trinity Church, where we visited the Bardic grave. Though far from being a faithful Christian I am nevertheless a rather frequent visitor and admirer of elderly churches, especially when there is a Shakespeare inside.